Best of Q&A

Dear Cocktail Guru:
In your travels through the mixological geekery and the hipsterdom of the cocktail revival of the last few years, you have no doubt come across the practice of the moment of serving cocktails in a coupe. And while I readily agree that a traditional champagne coupe does share most, if not all, of its properties with the cocktail glass, some of the more recent models created specifically for the luxury cocktail trade, and aptly illustrated by the sketch at the above link, do have sides that curve in noticeably, causing the glass to have some of the properties of its wine counterpart. Do you care to comment on this evolution of cocktail glassware?
Sincerely,
Amateur Mixologist and Professional Skeptic
Dear Skeptical Mixologist,
I wish I could speak with more authority as to the coupe’s merits and liabilities, but I’ve had all of one cocktail served in it, to date. (Incidentally, it was the Prohibition Era Martini from the Raven’s Club in Ann Arbor, which is exactly the sort of place you’d expect to see a coupe revival in full swing). The cocktail was delicious, and didn’t seem at all hindered by the mildly focusing shape of the coupe. Having said that, the glass didn’t seem to bring any advantage to the experience either, other than its stylistic conformity to the overall 1920′s nostalgia of the place.
In fact, lacking further experience, I’d venture to state that nostalgia is the only thing the glass has to offer when set beside the cocktail glass — although this may be more than enough for most. I found it telling that, in the Q Mix-a-Lot coupe write-up you shared, no merits were listed beyond its venerable pedigree, its current fashionable status, and its “sexiness,” “timelessness,” and “sophistication.”
Despite the coupe’s slightly tapered lip, it does nothing to safeguard its contents, as the tiny dimensions of the bell require that it be filled more or less to the brim, assuming we aren’t making halved or quartered recipes — yet another of Marie Antoinette’s many shortcomings, we’re to believe. What’s more, and I realize that this is entirely a matter of taste, I find the coupe far less aesthetically pleasing than the cocktail glass. Where the latter is arboresque and expansive, the former is somewhat squat and evocative of nothing much more than itself. On the one hand, it lacks the clean lines and elegance of the cocktail glass. On the other, it lacks the soft, finished roundness of a burgundy glass or a snifter, which loosely enclose their contents in an airy rotunda.
My conclusion, which remains half-formed (though the same thing might be said about the coupe), is that here is a glass best used by actors in period pieces. This is precisely what most of the best-known bars, those trend-setters and watchtowers of the cocktail renaissance, are currently in the process of transforming themselves into, however, so I expect that the coupe may well become and stay de rigeuer for quite some time.
All this notwithstanding, my experience with the glass remains very limited. So please, if you (or any of our other kind readers) have either experiences or reasoned arguments to share in defense of the coupe and its current bijou status, I’d be grateful to receive them.
Yours in alchemy,
Clive Watson
Where to Begin?
Dear Clive:
I wish I was more knowledgeable about cocktails. Whenever I look into nice cocktails to try, I realize I have to either buy entire bottles of things to mix with or pay for overpriced cocktails at the bar. How does one get started?
overwhelmed by options,
forwardslash of hubski.com
Dear forwardslash,
Your catch 22 is a tough one. If I hadn’t been introduced to delicious cocktails by friends, I doubt I’d ever have tested the waters, let alone gotten far. There is a way forward though, and it’s a good deal easier to find on account of all the ongoing cocktail hoopla.
In case it helps, I’d like to weigh in on your dilemma: pay for overpriced cocktails at the bar. I know the dollar per ounce economy screams against it, but the value of know-how is triply important here. Early on in my own backward self-education, I sat down with a friend who knew nearly as little as I did, and we tasted our way through ten or twelve different important spirits. We had no idea what we were doing, though, and as a result, everything tasted awful. I’d guess it took me the better part of a decade to undo the stigmas formed in that ill-advised tasting.
Despite surface appearances, bar economics work in your favor, at least when you’re finding your footing. sure, you’ll pay anywhere from 2 to 8 times the amount per ounce for liquids consumed, but you won’t need to buy a full bar’s worth of high quality ingredients, which is in fact what it takes to ensure a pleasant first trip on the cocktail trolley.
What will be your first drink of choice, the first one that really makes you say, “Aha! So this is what everyone’s going on about!” It’s impossible to say, really. It could be a vodka tonic, for all we know. Or it could be a Sazerac, a mai-tai, or a top-shelf margarita. Take yourself out to a properly-stocked bar, and you’ll have all of these options at your disposal. Once you know what you like, you’ll have a much shorter list of ingredients to collect in order to assemble a personally tailored home bar. In the long run, you’ll save loads of money by not buying costly bottles you’ll never use.
The important thing, right off the bat, is to make sure you end up at the right kind of bar. And what’s the right kind of bar, you may ask? Well, it’s a place that carries a wide variety of high-quality spirits, of course. And again, i know this generally means higher cost. But if that cost is justified by quality ingredients and know-how, each additional dollar is likely to return value at an exponential rate.
More importantly, the right kind of bar is the one sporting good staff. Any bartender who knows his/her craft should be able to mix a good drink, but that goes without saying. More importantly, a bartender should be able to talk you through your options, and should be eager to do so. I, for one, have always enjoyed consulting guests that haven’t gotten to try much. The potential to delight in this situation is really grand. I start by asking what types of food they like. What flavors do they enjoy, and what sensations would they rather avoid? Within the span of a 10 second interview, I generally know exactly where to start them out.
So, if you find yourself in a deafening mob of thirsty clubbers, struggling to flag down a sneering barstaff of too-cool-for-school twenty-somethings who can barely hear you and don’t seem to care, it’s probably best to shove off and head down the way. You should be getting value for your business, and part of that value is professional advice.
As a general rule, don’t trust bars that use pre-made mixes or bottled citrus juice. If they tell you their whiskey sour contains whiskey and sour mix, the door will probably turn out to be your best friend in the room.
Of course, the ready availability of fine establishments will depend entirely on where you live, and what center of urban culture is nearest you. The cocktail boom is working in your favor though, and decent watering holes are beginning to crop up in the tiniest of towns, in the unlikeliest of places. Anyone who tries to tell you, “you just can’t get a good cocktail outside of NYC or San Fran,” is just flashing their “I’m pretentious, ask me how” badge, right along side of their “I have no idea what I’m talking about” badge.
If you’re bent on sussing it all out on your own though, the best way to proceed is to decide which base spirit to tackle first. To keep it simple, I’d limit the crowd to vodka, gin, tequila, rum, and whiskey for starters. Each of these base spirits offers a noble family of libations to be explored, but you’ll want to audition them in simpler drinks at first. Here are a few good test recipes, ordered according to base spirit: vodka tonic/vodka gimlet, gin and tonic/gin gimlet, Margarita, mojito/daiquiri (the classic recipe, that is — watch out for frozen smoothie versions, which have very little to do with the original), whiskey sour/Manhattan. Most of these are very basic drinks, and I’ve chosen them because they each showcase the qualities of their base spirit. But once you’ve picked a favorite starting point, the world will be yours to explore.
Looking for a quick and easy recipe guide? I’ve always been impressed by the intuitive arrangement and thorough scope of the Internet Cocktail Database. They may not have all the hip, new-fangled, and elaborate recipes and techniques you’ll find employed in the most cutting edge cocktail labs and retro-speakeasies of the day, but you probably won’t be wanting to use liquid nitrogen right off the bat anyhow — and they’ve got the basics well covered. Their approach is straightforward and their recipes are clear. Also, you can search for recipes by ingredient, as well as by name.
Sorry for the long reply, but I hope that some of this will prove helpful.
Cheers!
Clive Watson